When I was younger, I went to a Thierry Mugler couture show. Out of all the fashion shows I had been to, this was definitely one of the most exciting. Thierry Mugler was amongst those designers who instead of creating the bland fashion shows we see during Fashion Week in NYC, created theater on the runway. He was part of a generation of “createur” who were inspired by the arts and thought of themselves not merely as designers but as Artists.
With that in mind, last week was the debut collection of Nicola Formichetti for Mugler. Now, as we know, the debut collection of any designer is his/her opportunity to put a stake in the ground and claim their place within the ranks of the fashion world. Yet, one of the hardest things to do when taking over a name brand with a legacy is to follow in the footsteps of the namesake. Some designers need to put their own stamp on the collection and others just plain don’t get it.
For Mugler’s Fall collection, Nicola Formichetti was able to put his stake in the ground, get it and very elegantly follow in the footsteps of the namesake, Thierry Mugler. With his debut fall collection for Mugler, Formichetti created pieces that weren’t made for the racks of Bergdorf and Isetan. Instead of designing what was “sellable”, with the help of his cohort Lady Gaga, he decided to communicate his vision for the future of the brand, creating a road map for things to come. I was impressed with this collection and will definitely keep an eye on what he does next.
via (
wwd and
the sartorialist)
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